Tuesday 20 November 2018

Fixing my Pentax K-30 exposure problem: #2 let's do it!

My new JIS screw drivers arrived from China a few days ago.

Following on from an earlier post, I needed these to fit the tiny JCIS screws on my camera.

So its time to strip down both my K110D and K-30 Pentax cameras to see if I can repair my K-30.

The P.00, which is the smaller of the 2 screw drivers that I ordered, seems to fit the heads of the screws on my camera perfectly. And there are a lot of screws to remove and refit in the correct place in order to complete this job.

great screw driver, but all text has now worn off except that stupid symbol recommending the use of safety goggles!

These cameras use JCIS screws of differing lengths and thread pitch. So if you are going to try to repair a camera, it is vital that you make comprehensive notes, e.g. screw length, pitch and location.

I'm listing the screws here for my own benefit, describing them by the thread length and whether they have a coarse or fine thread. I measured the thread length from the underside of the screw head, so measurements are approximate but mean something to me. The fine threaded screws (F) mate with metal parts, while the coarse threaded screws (C) are for plastic.

Don't use my list, make your own, or you will get in a mess!

the Penatx K110D

This is my old camera which has a solenoid I can use to replace the dodgy one in my current camera, the K-30.

In order to remove the solenoid from this camera, we need to release the top cover. The flash head needs to be open, so fit a set of AA batteries, press the flash pop-up button, and then wrap some masking tape around the flash so it doesn't accidentally shut during handling.

Remove the follow parts:-

  • batteries
  • SD card
  • lens (fit a body cap)

Carefully remove the rubber surrounding the eyepiece. This seems to be glued on, so I'll have to work out how to re-attach that later.

Remove the 8 retaining screws:-
strap loop screws; x2 thread length C4mm

screw near K110D text; x1 thread length C5mm

inside flash; x2 thread length C4mm

eyepiece; x2 thread length C5mm

inside battery compartment; x1 thread length C8mm bright metal

Then its just a question of carefully lifting the top off to expose the solenoid...

...and un-soldering the pink & violet wires from the pcb.

the Pentax K-30

Again, remove the battery, SD card, eyepiece (this one is just pushed upwards on slots). Also remove the lens and fit a body cap.

The flash head on the K-30 has just a mechanical button release, so no need to jam it open.

Remove the top cover screws:-
strap loop screws x2; grip/shutter release side C3.5/4mm, other side F6.5/7mm
screw under flash button x1; C5.5mm
flash head x3; C3mm

eyepiece x2; C5.5mm
battery compartment x1; 9mm half threaded bright metal screw

bottom cover screws:-
battery compartment;
 - front of battery compartment x1; C9.5mm
 - near hinge x1; C5.5mm
 - under battery lid x2; C6.5mm
to right of batt x2 C5.5mm
near tripod mount x2 F3mm
back corner (near ce label) x1; F6mm
back row x2;  C4mm
front pair (near ce label) x2;  F6mm

...and from under the bottom cover, remove the screw nearest the white battery clip; C3.5mm.

Carefully peel back the rubber grips on each side to remove 4 screws;

left: x2 F3.5mm, & right: x1 C5.5mm (not under rubber) & x1 C4mm

That is a total of 27 screws for the K-30.

Now very, very, very carefully raise the top cover a little way, and then carefully prise the front cover away from the body. (note: the front cover locks into the top cover, so you need to pull the top away by just a few millimetres to release the front cover).

Again, un-solder the solenoid from the pcb.

With both solenoids removed, refit the green one into the K110D and the clear/white plastic one into the K-30. The wires on the green solenoid are shorter than the white one, so will need extending. Apart from that little detail, reassembly is basically a reversal of the above instructions.

What happened next?  See part 3 in a subsequent post...

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